It
may be 2009, but did you know that beer brewed in Utah is considered
a myth beyond the state line?
--- ...But we do. Dating back to
the mid eighties, Wasatch Beers has been brewing and supplying the
state with the finest lager and ale they can provide. Setting
standards, rewriting laws along the way, and constantly raising the
bar for other local breweries to achieve. Even merging with longtime
friendly rival Squatters in 2000 to become one of the largest local
alcohol suppliers in the state as the Utah Brewers Cooperative. With
over two decades and several awards under their belts, it doesn't
look like they'll be going anyway anytime soon. I got a chance to
take a tour of the place for pictures, and chat with staff, management and the Wasatch founder about the
brewery.
Greg Schirf, Adam Curfew, David McKean, Dan
Burick and Cindy Patterson
http://www.utahbeers.com/
Gavin:
Hey guys. First off, tell us a little bit about yourselves.
Greg:
Well, I've been in Utah since 1974, I grew up in Milwaukee, Wisconsin
and graduated from Marquette University. I think growing up and going
to school in my hometown I had a pent up need to go west. As the
story goes I tell my Mormon friends I didn't bring a pole cutter but
I did hitchhike here, been here ever since. I started the Wasatch
Brewery in 1986.
David: We are a solid crew of beer
lovers who are obsessed with making consistent top quality beer! I
honestly believe that I work with some of the most talented people in
the business.
Cindy: I’m Cindi and I love Utah
beer!
Dan: I moved here from Colorado in 1985 to
ski for a few years and here it is 2009 and I am still here.
Adam:
My name is Adam Curfew I am one of the brewers at UBC, I am a
chemistry major at the University Of Utah and I love beer.
Gavin: How did you first take interest in brewing beer for a
living?
Greg: It was a combination of being a beer
enthusiast mostly on the consumer level and a home brewer, combined
with a real drive to start a small business. I looked at a lot of
opportunities but had never felt comfortable taking the leap. But
then I was with some college friends who had invited me up to Seattle
for Thanksgiving in 1984, they had heard me talk about wanting to
start my own brewery for a long time and said they wanted me to meet
somebody. They had set up a Thanksgiving dinner with guy by the name
of Tom Barn who started the Pyrmaid Breweries up in the northwest.
And after that meeting my plans to a quantum leap, I met a guy who
was doing what I wanted to do, struck up a friendship with him and he
helped make it all possible. After that I came back and started plans
on building a brewery in Utah.
Adam: I started home
brewing when I was 21 and loved it more than any other hobby have
ever had. I pretty much read every book I could get my hands on and
bugged the guys at the brewery until I finally got a job.
David:
In 1995 when I was a student at the University of Utah, I took on a
summer job at the Wasatch Brewery. I wanted to experience brewing on
a larger scale than what I was doing at home. I loved the work and
realized that my training in Biology and Chemistry was an appropriate
fit for brewing as a career. I was hooked and there was no turning
back.
Dan: Homebrewing in 1985.
Cindy:
I’m not a brewer but I love selling the crap out of this delicious
stuff. Nobody’s ever in a bad mood when they need to buy some beer
and with sales you get the opportunity to further educate people on
the process and experience that beer brings. Beer is a loving
progressive community full of good times and sharing.
Gavin: Let's first start off with how Wasatch Brew Pub got its start.
What's the story behind its creation?
Greg: I grasped
on the process of starting a micro-brewery back when it was unique to
Utah. And of course the question was “why would you want to put
something that's already a dicey-business plan in an environment
where people don't drink beer?” But I thought if it could work in
Utah it could work anywhere by you take the hardest test market you
can find. For a long time it was really a venture that relied heavily
on tourism, made money in the summer and winter and lose it in the
other seasons, but the demographics have changed dramatically in the
state as it has grown.
Gavin: How
difficult was it running a brewery in a state with such conservative
liquor laws at the time?
Cindy: Very
difficult and continually difficult. Legislation is a wild game of
hurry up and wait.
Greg: It was difficult even though
there wasn't a lot of hoops. When I started as a micro-brewery it
meant we just made beer for distribution. When I went to the state
for a brewery license they kinda looked at me strangely and said non
one had ever asked them for a license before, but its in the state
statute and legal. Just asked for the name and where we'd be located
and when we got a federal license they'd give us a state license. Two
years later I came back and wanted to do a brew-pub and instantly
said no, and it had been on the books under Tide House laws. So I
figured I should get the law changed here since that was part of the
survival, and being young and stupid and p!$$ed off from being
laughed at I walked out pretty motivated. I went back to my local
representative at the time who had a dairy and I knew the laws would
work for his distribution as well, he liked it but said he couldn't
sponsor it, but told me if I could find someone to sponsor it he'd
back me up. And suggested Mike Demetrick who was a crazy renegade
democrat down in Price, he agreed immediately and said he'd push to
get it passed. Back then no one knew what we were trying to do and it
got in under the radar, today it wouldn't have made it through. But
we waited until the end of session when they often group bills
together and just pass them. So we were dumb and lucky and if it
hadn't passed there'd be no Squatters or Red Rocks.
Dan:
To brew great 4% beers you really need to be on your game regarding
all flavor aspects of the brewing process. I think having to brew a
lot of 4% beers has made us better brewers in our higher alcohol
line. As far as "running a brewery" with strange laws,
I don't think it is a big deal.
Gavin:
How did you know the guys from Squatters?
Greg: Funny
story, my Squatters partners control Peter Cole and Jeff Polychronis
and I, before we even dreamed of starting a brewery, worked together
in the same real estate office in Park City. They later got into the
brewery business not long after I did, and we had been competitors!
But we had been able to stay friends.
Gavin: Did it
make things easier for Squatters after Wasatch set the bar, or was it
just as hard running a brewery in the state?
Cindy:
Wasatch made it easier for Squatters to acquire the license to
start a brew pub since Wasatch developed the legislation for brew
pubs to first exist. After Wasatch was established, Squatters only
needed to apply for the license and start rolling in the business of
beer slinging. Yet, the commercial beer business is full of obstacles
and challenges. Nothing is easy. It’s all ball busting
work.
Gavin: Was there any
hostility between the two companies or more mutual respect?
Greg:
Oh it was definitely mutual respect.
Cindy:
Friendship is rare and we’re all lucky to have the
benefit of working with such wonderful, progressive, political and
caring owners. Respect all around! There’s no I in Team and we’re
constantly learning life/business from both sides of
ownership.
Gavin: How did
the discussions to merge them both start, and what was it like for
both when the merger was finalized?
Greg: In 2000 we
all got together to have lunch, just to see how we were all doing.
And we got onto the idea of possibly having a third party bottle our
beers during one of those economies. We started talking and realized
it was too competitive of an industry to have a third party ride
along and be part of our priorities. So why don't we go back and look
at the numbers as if we had just doubled in size? After we ran them
we realized that it make a lot more sense than what we've been doing.
Shortly after that we joined the two breweries together in this
facility and agreed to keep our pubs separate. It was the best thing
that could have happened to us, combined all the resources and stay
profitable. Amazingly seamless.
Cindy: Money! And now
it’s about money. This business is very costly especially when
you’re planning to take over the world. The merger allowed both
breweries to healthfully supply the demand for their products without
going broke by being able to share debt.
Gavin:
What was it like for everyone when the merger finally
happened?
Greg: There was a lot of excitement and a
little bit of trepidation, but we really worked it out. Its basically
like a marriage, you jump in with someone, sometimes it works and
sometimes it doesn't. But ours worked because we had so much shared
passion about beer. We had a pretty clear direction that we wanted to
make the best beers we could and anyone who could make a contribution
to that was welcome. Its amazing that its been nine years and the
honeymoon is still in tact, I'm still waiting for the first spat but
so far we've been lucky, probably because its been fun.
David:
It was a very exciting time for us to become a larger and more
capable company.
Adam: It was great we doubled our
resources both physically and intellectually.
Cindy: It’s
like being a polygamist. We all got to get in bed with each other and
share the chores except we’re all over 18 and consenting adults.
Awesome!
Dan: It was a bit strange. In my opinion it
took about two years for the cultures to come together, but it went
fairly smoothly.
Gavin: Without
giving away major details, how do you go about making a new brew from
start to finish?
Greg: Well it depends on what the brew
is. One example of a recent brew, The Devastator, I was over at the
Red Iguana with Cindy and Adam for lunch, and we said “We should
make a really @$$-kicking beer, the younger adults are really into
the high alcohol beers. We should just come out with one and sell it
to the liquor stores.” And I thought it was a great idea. Shot a
tequila and a beer later we came up with the name. I told the brewery
guys to go back there and make the best beer you ever wanted to make,
no guidelines and have fun. They put all their knowhow together using
two different kinds of yeast and the beer was born. Cindy knew an
artist and I had a concept for the label art, he came over and jumped
all over it. And we took it from lunch idea to on the shelves in two
months. Consumers jumped on it right out of the gate, its one of our
best sellers.
Cindy: It all starts with lunch at Red
Iguana and finishes with cocktails. The next thing you know you have
another amazing beer on the shelf. Immaculate Conception.
Dan:
We look at our line from a beer style point of view, find a style we
are lacking and that we like to drink and brew it. (And then... Drink
Our Share!)
Gavin: Is it
difficult keeping the brewing process a secret?
Dan: I
don't think the brewing process is all that secret but there are some
ingredients and use rates we try to keep close to our vest.
Adam:
The process is no secret everyone pretty much makes beer the same.
The real thing that distinguishes one brewer from the next is the
attention to and understanding of the details. Its the little things
that take a good beer and make it great, there are a lot of little
things and they all add up.
Greg: You know, we're not
terribly paranoid. Some brewers tend to really have a protective
nerve with their beer. At the end of the day its a crafted product,
you wanna use quality ingredients and the proper processing. We don't
advertise it, but we have brewers come and go, but we're really not
that paranoid. We do the best we can, all our beers are unique from
each other from one level to the next. We don't openly advertise it
but we're not shredding our recipe after every brew.
Cindy:
There are no secrets. If you had our recipes you still couldn’t
duplicate what we do. You’d have to clone Jon Lee and Adam Curfew
first. Good luck.
Gavin: How
have the beers caught on outside of Utah?
Greg: You
know, we've only had limited success outside the state, and I don't
think it has anything to do with the percentage. But its hard for any
kind of micro-brewery to change its local appeal. Because as the
industry has expanded over the past twenty years you have more
focused regional appeal, where every city and state has its own
brewery. And even businesses like Pyramid and Sam Adams have gone
national in distribution, to which they take up a good portion of the
market share. So for us to go out of state is just a big challenge
and we'd have to make a considerable effort at branding. We changed
our business plan after merging with Squatters that we wanted to own
our backyard.
David: The 4% beers as well as the
higher strength beers have all proved popular in other markets.
Dan:
We are just now reaching markets further out. We don't sell our
entire lines in the out of state markets, but the beers we
do sell do well.
Cindy: We have
some of the best feedback you can receive about our beers from non
Utahn’s. People constantly want to carry our products out of state.
Sadly, at this time, we cannot support the demand for large out of
state sales. Give us a few years and you’ll see us everywhere.
We’re in the maturation period. We’ll grow up shortly.
Gavin:
Do you ever retire beers from the line? And if so, is
there a secret supply of that sitting around for prosperity or to
bring it back later?
Dan: That's a secret!
Adam:
Yes we do, there may be a stash sometimes but it does not last
long.
Cindy: We do and it’s a sad fate. Yet, what we
replace our retired beers with something even bigger and
better.
Greg: We've had to, in fact its always kind of
a sad day. The first beer we ever came out with was Wasatch Premium
Ale back in 1986, ran with that for a decade or so, but felt we were
losing some momentum so we changed the name to Wasatch Superior Ale.
Made a bunch of attempts to refine the recipe and I believe we
confused the consumer by changing it around too much and trying to
tweak it. And we lost enough momentum to where it wasn't doing us any
good on the shelf. The way shelf space works is if your beer isn't
selling you're going to loose that space, so we just decided to stop
making that. We did the same thing with another beer called the
Slickrock Lager. They come and go and you try to stay consistent, but
trends and tastes and creativity changes so its kind of an evenflow.
The old stuff isn't exactly red wine, beer is a fresh commodity and
the sooner you can drink it the better. People used to tell me after
Christmas season they'd keep the season ale, they'd have some left
over and kept it with the decorations to drink next year, and I was
telling them it wouldn't be any good then.
Gavin:
What are your thoughts on the awards and recognition
you've gotten over the years?
Cindy: We love it and
hope it keeps up. Recognition is always a good thing but awards don’t
mean that you’re the best, customer opinions do.
Adam:
It is really great to get awards it really helps to fight the “Utah
beer is not real beer” stigma and it is nice to be recognized by
our peers. However at the end of the day it is our customers that
really count we make beer for beer drinkers not beer judges.
David:
It's always great to receive awards, but the highest honor is
bestowed by our loyal customers who make it possible for us to keep
doing this.
Dan: We are very fortunate to have been
recognized by our brewing peers in regional, national and
international competitions. It keeps you excited about brewing
great beers.
Greg: I think being in a state where the
beer was supposed to be 4% or less has forced us to be some of the
best brewers to get that alcohol content. To get it to 4.0 you have
to be really creative and committed. But we compete in open
categories in the world beer cups and The Great American Beer
Festival and there is no 4% categoty. So we're winning gold metals
against higher percentage beers and I think that speaks to
competition here in Utah and that we've been able to survive long
enough to get better and better at what we're doing.
Gavin:
A little state-wide, what's your take on the liquor law
changes made this past session, both good and bad?
Greg:
Not too much on the bad side, I think getting rid of the private
clubs is going to have a pretty profound effect. Particularly on
tourism which is our #1 industry. Huntsman being a smart guy and a
world traveler and very educated decided to say “look guys, if
you're going to continue to have kids in mass numbers where our
schools are going to be taxed, this is our best chance to pay the
bills.” Like let's not shoot ourselves in the foot and make tourism
a welcome industry here. So persuading the legislators was a big
positive. Essentially this last change was mainly about the clubs and
the Zion Curtain. I have no real issue with the added enforcement
that's coming along as a tradeoff. The two-million insurance policy
is going to be a concern and a real cost. There
is one downside, and I don't know if they'll ever go back and adjust
this. And that's if you're a new business you have to go through this
design phase where you mix the drinks out of sight. Its a huge
disadvantage to anyone new coming into town, so if a new
cookie-cutter place come into town they end up having to change
business plans. I think that will affect the growth of new
restaurants.
Dan: I think for the most part its
been good. Being a Colorado transplant, the private club thing never
sat well with me. I will totally enjoy stopping by a non-private club
on a whim from time to time.
David: I think that
restaurants should keep ice cream out of sight from children, so that
they are not encouraged to become obese.
Cindy: Who
cares. They’ll change again in another session. Just adds onto the
paperwork pile and hoop jumping skills.
Gavin:
What's your relationship like with other breweries around
the state?
Adam: Very good!
Dan: Great,
we get along like cats and dogs. Just kidding, our relationships are
all very good. From a production point of view the entire industry,
around the globe, shares information and is very helpful towards one
another. I think the sales guys may be a bit more
competitive.
Cindy: Beer is a very supportive line of
work. From my experience, we all love and support each other as much
as possible. We all have the same goal = drink/make kick ass beers!
All ya have to do is share and any brewer anywhere will have your
back.
Greg: Cordial. Some come and go, some used to be
employees here for a year or two and go off to start their own
breweries. They go on and add to the competitive spirit. There's a
professional distance but a courtesy, if you will. We're pretty close
with the guys from Red Rock, we get together and do tastings. Its
like any other friendships, you see some more than others but its
pretty civil.
Gavin: How
do those new changes affect you both as a business and as a
patron?
Greg: As a patron, because I have to go into
all the clubs and sell them beer, I'm pretty much a member
everywhere. It'll be easier and much less of a hassle. As a business,
our Wasatch Brew Pub in Park City I think is really going to benefit.
Because we had areas where it was a Tavern License, where you could
just sell beer, and now we'll have a full service bar throughout the
restaurant, call it a Class C Private Club license. When the economy
starts to come back we think it's going to be a win for the
restaurant/club business and the state revenue.
Cindy:
I don’t kiss and tell!
Dan: I think my wife and I
will be better patrons and enjoy the city a bit more.
Gavin:
Are there any plans to expand the company beyond what
you're doing now?
Cindy: Oh yeah, but we got to take
baby steps and get into more debt. The economy slump has our
expansion plans set back a bit. We’ve got to pick and choose the
most effective rout, especially with loan applications, but we shall
hold tight to the rod and make it out on top.
Dan: From
the Brew-hall... Some new, more efficient equipment and
systems.
Greg: We are close to expanding this building,
we're going to add to the south end for some new equipment we're
bringing in. No new brew pubs planed but we are going to expand this
production facility here at 17th South.
Gavin:
Being a local business, how is it running the company in
this current economy?
Greg: My mother told me when I
started the brewery “You got a lot of crazy ideas but I like this
one because it might just be recession proof. People drink in the
good times and celebrate in the bad times to forget their troubles.”
This was 1985, long before this recession, and she had gone through
the Great Depression. So we're giving that the full test and she was
right, people continue drinking. Especially beer drinkers because its
their last luxury. So we're not breaking any records like we would in
a healthy economy but we're doing okay. Our pub restaurants have been
more impacted because that's a different experience going out to eat.
But overall given the sad, sad state with so many businesses and so
many people losing their houses and jobs, we're actually doing
okay.
Cindy: We’re very lucky that Utahn’s have
desire for local commerce. We fit right into that trend and do our
best to support local business as well. We purchase all we can
locally to supply our needs and our options are growing. I think with
the economy slump people would rather give what dollars they have to
someone other than big business. Big business has lost some trust in
American hearts and we’d rather help out a friend or local family
than throw our money at something that doesn’t give back.
Gavin:
What can we expect from you guys the rest of the
year?
Adam: A lot of great beer.
Dan:
More great seasonals.
Cindy: Twenty more years of damn
fine beers.
Greg: We'll be pre-occupied with out
building expansion and new equipment, and will definitely be coming
out with new products. Not just new beers but new container sizes.
Larger. Jenny at Squatters Downtown has inspired us to come out with
a bigger size bottle compared to the 12 ounce, and that will be
coming out the end of the year.
Gavin:
Aside from the obvious, is there anything you'd like to
plug or promote?
Cindy: Give me liberty or give me a
cold one!
David: Science and rational thinking!
Dan:
Fresh local beer, fresh local beer, fresh local beer. Did I mention
fresh local beer?
Greg: We really like doing business
in Utah, we really like the consumer base and how its grown and
responded to what we're doing, and we feel fortunate. Its not the
most robust beer drinking group in the world, but those who do drink
treat us well and we're real appreciative.