2 Row Solar Flare and Epic Double Cross | Drink | Salt Lake City Weekly

2 Row Solar Flare and Epic Double Cross 

Thin is not in with this week's local ales

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MIKE RIEDEL
  • Mike Riedel

2Row - Solar Flare: We haven't seen a new beer come out of 2 Row for a while. That's because owner Brian Coleman and his crew are putting all of their neurons into overdrive to create their new brewery/brewpub. Stay close for news on this as its time gets closer.

For this new New England-style IPA, the body is a murky nontransparent orange-copper of average vibrance. The scent brings notes of pale malts, floral hops, tangerine citrus, onion and subtle rindy bitterness. The aromatic intensity lends itself to tanginess in the hop profile, suggesting a balanced IPA. I'm looking forward to trying it, but aromatically, it's well executed.

The fantastic hop character melts into the tangerine fruit character, with notes of faint orange, floral hops and bright-but-vague citrus, including some really faint dried lime in there too. The presence of a pale malt sweetness keeps the balance impeccable, even if the flavor profile as a whole lacks the intricacy of the best IPAs in 2 Row's portfolio. Hop profile is rather good, but isn't fantastic if we're nitpicking; the average duration and intensity of flavor isn't as explosive as some other beers they've made. Still, it's refreshing and tangy, with a well disguised ABV and an approachable medium body.

Verdict: From a brewery that has mastered the IPA style, I get this, and it is quite different. You can't make identical beers or create something that mimics others in your portfolio. It's a must-try for any hop-heads, and you'll enjoy its 6.8 percent ABV as well.

Epic - Double Cross: This new ale is described as a Double Amber Ale, which kinda takes this beer into the realms of barleywines and old ales, though it lacks the body of the previously mentioned styles.

From the can it pours a murky dark copper liquid, with a moderate head that has basic staying power. An ultra-thin ring collar circles the surface, even leaving hints of lace. I assume this style is not supposed to yield much by way of head, however, its muddy dark cider look is not this brew's most appealing aspect.

The nose on the other hand, is a different story. It represents a complex bouquet of aromas that can be intoxicating at times: rich and malt-forward, with toasted malts, caramel, toffee and, especially, dark molasses. Complimenting this you get a range of fruity esters, including raisins, dates and figs. The sweetness that emanates from these flavors is at times almost cloying, yet enticing. Punctuating this sweetness is a strong alcohol spice that has me inhaling the glass as I would a fine single-malt. Finally, there are some nutty and even dark chocolate-like aromas that add to the overall complexity.

In the mouth, it's full bodied and less chewy than the nose suggests. The toasted malts, syrupy caramel, molasses sweetness and raisins run the show. Although the flavors align with the aroma, they are a bit mellower. For one, there is a modest but significant hops bitterness that balances things out. Also, the finish is increasingly dry, whiskey/bourbon-like, and the aftertaste has a slight spiciness from the hops. Perhaps of most significance is the 9.0 percent alcohol warming which, although not overwhelmingly boozy, plays a large role in the flavor profile.

Verdict: This brew is at times intense, and a bit of a sipper. It seems to fit well with the elements of what the brewers were trying to create, while providing great complexity.

Double Cross is in Epic's fridges now in 16-ounce cans. Solar Flare is 2 Row's first beer to only be packaged in 16-ounce cans, and is available now.

The best thing about buying from the breweries directly? The beers have never been warm. Ever. And that's the way it should be. As always, cheers!

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About The Author

Mike Riedel

Mike Riedel

Bio:
Local boy and pilot of City Weekly’s best gig, The Beer Nerd column since 2017. Current photojournalist at KSTU TV (Fox 13) and host of the Utah Beer Blog and Beer Nerd Radio on KUAA 99.9 FM radio.

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