Beer reviews: Shades Pineapple Upside Down Cake and Uinta Endankification 

• Mike Riedel

Shades - Pineapple Upside Down Cake: Buckle up for a tropical twist from the makers of some of Utah's most intriguing beers. As the name denotes, this is a take on the classic pineapple upside-down cake. The unique qualities of this dessert come from the caramelized pineapple covering the bottom of the cake pan while baking.

Shades' Pineapple Upside Down Cake ale pours a hazy, golden hue, capped by a surprisingly persistent off-white foam that eventually settles, leaving delicate rings of lacing. The nose is an absolute carnival—think caramelized pineapple sweetness punching through a distinct, almost tangy fruitiness from Kveik yeast. There's a hint of brown sugar richness mingling with a subtle, lactose-enhanced tartness that teases the palate.

Take a sip, and the promised dessert comes alive. The initial sweetness of the pineapple is beautifully balanced by a refreshing sourness. That unique Kveik character shines through, adding a layer of complexity beyond a simple fruit ale, with maybe a whisper of citrus. The "cake" element manifests as a subtle biscuity or even slightly buttery note that plays nicely with the tropical fruit. The tartness lingers, preventing it from becoming cloying, and the finish is surprisingly clean, with just an echo of that caramelized pineapple returning. The body is medium, perhaps a touch creamy from the lactose addition. At a moderate 6.5 percent ABV, this is a seriously intriguing and enjoyable brew.

Verdict: It manages to capture the essence of the classic dessert in a surprisingly sophisticated and refreshing way. If you're looking for a sour ale with a playful and unique profile, this pineapple upside-down cake creation is definitely worth seeking out. Allergen note: Contains lactose.

Uinta - Endankification: This Imperial IPA was made with Pilsner and Munich malts and hopped with Strata Simcoe and Cascade. One of the cool things that the Uinta brewers did was to recreate the old-school flavor profile of, say, Crystal and 2 Row malts, using a combination of German malts not typically used in the making of this style of IPA. The malt profile should be aggressive and caramel-like to counter the massive amount of hops used.

Crack open this West Coast Double and it bursts forth with a pristine, meringue-like foam, perched atop a hazy, sun-kissed amber liquid. Sniff deep, and you're hit with a vibrant bouquet. Crisp, pale malts form a clean canvas for a rush of citrus, with zesty grapefruit and bright pine taking center stage. The aroma just pops with freshness.

The first taste is a wake-up call of grapefruit, its tangy edge bordering on a delightful pucker, mingling with a subtle pithiness and a touch of fruity yeast character. As it washes over the palate, a wave of soft, juicy hop flavor emerges—lemon, ripe peach and a medley of tropical fruit juices dance together. The malt backbone is understated, providing a simple, cracker-like foundation with just a hint of sweetness to keep things balanced. The texture is intriguing—a light slickness, oily richness and soft chewiness leading to a moderately dry finish. At a sneaky 8.9 percent ABV, the alcohol is remarkably well-hidden.

Verdict: This is a seriously well-crafted West Coast Double IPA. The bright, accessible flavors, particularly that prominent grapefruit and the piney hop finish, are fantastic. It's a welcome reminder of the magic that this classic hop blend can bring to a beer.

Endankification is part of Uinta's Pro Line Series and is a limited production DIPA; save yourself the headache and just buy it at the brewery if you can. Pineapple Upside Down Cake is in Shades' new 16-ounce cans and is available now at their brewery at 1388 S. 300 West in SLC. As always, cheers!