Brunches at FAV Bistro, Saffron Valley, Rancherito's, Red Iguana, Donut Star | Restaurant Reviews | Salt Lake City Weekly

Brunches at FAV Bistro, Saffron Valley, Rancherito's, Red Iguana, Donut Star 

Your guide to tasty, unconventional alternatives to your typical Easter Brunch.

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Anny Sooksri of Fav Bistro - ALEX SPRINGER
  • Alex Springer
  • Anny Sooksri of Fav Bistro

Easter is this weekend, which means those of us who worship at the altar of food and dining will be finding ways to enjoy a sumptuous brunch on Sunday. There are all kinds of fancy brunch buffets open around town, and I think each one of them is delightful in their own way. But there is something about the brunch crowd—you know, the people who "do" brunch instead of eat brunch—that just rubs me the wrong way. That said, this year I decided to compile a list of alternative brunch ideas from tasty restaurants around town to help aid those of you who share my social anxieties but still want a hearty Easter breakfast.

To start things off, let's talk about Anny Sooksri's local favorite FAV Bistro (1984 E. Murray Holladay Road, 801-676-9300, bestthaifoodinutah.com). Yes, it's an amazing Thai-fusion spot for lunch and dinner, but if you've never hit this place up for brunch you are totally missing out. This place is perfect for those who still crave a brunch vibe—FAV is a darling space with plenty of natural light and a full range of cocktails—but want something a little bit different on the menu.

I myself fell in love with the kow tom—a traditional chicken and rice soup that'll chase your hangover away—many brunches ago. The concept of soup for breakfast is still a bit alien to our little part of the culinary landscape, though I always wonder why. Whether the morning finds you recovering from a bit too much to drink or possessed of your full faculties, a hot bowl of flavorful kow tom is a great morning jumpstart. The chicken broth brings the savory and the sharp ginger brings the acid, creating a unique balance of flavors with each bite.

If you want something sweet from FAV, you must try the coconut pancakes. They're light, fluffy and served with a silky-smooth coconut cream sauce with a bit of chai butter for slathering. When I am particularly famished, a bowl of kow tom followed by a stack of these delights is one of the best combos I've ever tried.

Those that like to start their day with a vibrant shot of flavorful curry will want to visit one Saffron Valley's (saffronvalley.com) locations for a dosa or two. The dosa is a thin, crepe-like creation made from a fermented rice-and-lentil flour. It's usually fried to a golden brown crisp and then wrapped around anything delicious. The flour imparts a bit of sourdough flavor to whatever is lucky enough to be captured in its embrace, and they're usually gigantic. At Saffron Valley, you can get dosas stuffed with chicken tikka masala, but if that's a bit too awesome for brunch, there are a few other options. If we're talking brunch, I'd say the paneer spring dosa is a good call; it's got cubes of paneer cheese mixed with some veggies and potatoes, which evokes omelet vibes without being basic.

I also think the lassi is an underutilized brunch item. It's kind of the perfect way to start off a day for smoothie fans—you've got your fruits like strawberry or mango for vitamin C, and your yogurt for protein and probiotics. A veggie and paneer dosa chased with a mango lassi is a power breakfast that we don't talk about enough.

Since we're addressing Easter brunch specifically, I think that we need an option that features eggs in some capacity. In that case, let's talk machaca. This is a classic Mexican dish that scrambles up some eggs, shredded beef and veggies into a hearty pile of stick-to-your-bones goodness. If you want your brunch to-go, a machaca burrito from Rancherito's (rancheritosmexicanfood.com) is a great way to experience the wonder of this breakfast combo, and it will likely keep you full for most of the day. The machaca mixture evokes the finest meat-lover's omelet you've ever had, and wrapping it all up in a portable burrito package makes it all the more special.

If you're looking for a brunch destination with your mind on machaca and machaca on your mind, then you've got to try it out at Red Iguana (rediguana.com). Their Monterrey Plate features a heaping helping of their machaca, which is made with some slow-cooked shredded beef that is to die for. It comes with some refried beans and tortillas, so a brunch spent making little machaca tacos and sipping on margaritas is a brunch well-spent. Of course, while you're here and considering your options, their huevos rancheros and huevos motuleños are excellent choices as well.

If you're really set on breaking conventions this year, I think the ultimate show of brunchtime rebellion would be to head on over to Donut Star (213 E. 12300 South, Ste. H1, 801-790-2615, donutstarcafe.com). No, not just for a dozen doughnuts; that would be too easy. Instead, ask for the OG Breakfast Sandwich—a bacon, egg and cheese breakfast sando slapped between two grilled glazed doughnuts. The way the sugar caramelizes on the panini press, and the two extremes of sweet and salty bash themselves together in your mouth, is a totally valid way to welcome springtime to Utah—if it ever stops snowing, that is.

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