Garage Rock 

• Alex Springer

I'm back on my neighborhood gastropub kick, and boy do I have something special in the chamber for this week. I'm sure any readers from the Draper and Sandy area have heard of The Garage Grill (1122 E. Draper Parkway, 801-532-3339, thegaragegrill.com), but I stumbled upon it out of a hangry bit of happenstance.

I don't find myself going up the hill into downtown Draper too often, but my wife and I were doing a bit of patio dining exploration, saw The Garage Grill's pearlescent neon sign lit up, and decided to roll the dice. Like most memorable dining experiences, we went in not knowing what to expect—and The Garage Grill did not disappoint.

While I can't say I have a deep admiration for classic cars, garages or any of the associated accoutrements, I can respect a place that really throws itself into its own world. As the name implies, The Garage Grill has completely committed to a NASCAR-inspired aesthetic—plenty of fully-built automobiles are scattered around the inside for decorative punch. A big part of this artistic decision comes from owner Steve Pruitt, a veteran of the racing world who turned his attention to the restaurant and brewery scene; Pruitt also owns Salt Flats Brewery, which provides a variety of craft beer options for Garage Grill diners.

During my first visit, I was impressed by the creative take on traditional gastropub fare. Sure, you can get chili cheese fries, pizza and burgers, but you would be remiss to skip things like the Speedway Tachos ($13) which apply the nacho formula to a pile of golden crispy tater tots, or the Kuruma Lettuce Wraps ($12) stuffed with carrots, peanuts, edamame and kimchi with some sweet Thai chili sauce. For me, the lettuce wraps were the tip of the Asian-inspired iceberg that is waiting for unsuspecting visitors.

Though a lot of Asian food is perfect for the gastropub scene, it's not something I personally have seen often here in the Beehive State. The presence of sushi, edamame and miso soup at The Garage Grill feels like a swing for the fences, and it's something that could fail miserably in the wrong hands. I am happy to report, however, that the Asian influence on the Garage Grill's menu is a definite home run (or whatever the NASCAR equivalent is).

My first foray into this unexpected hybridization of sushi and pub food was the Crabby Patty Wagon Burger ($16). It has the look of a traditional pub burger—a golden toasty bun with a thick ground beef patty—but it's the addition of tempura-fried shrimp, spicy crab slaw and eel sauce that launch this burger into uncharted territory.

At first, it seemed like a bit of a novelty, some way to force cohesion between the sushi menu and the traditional pub food menu. But as soon as I took my first bite, I realized that some serious culinary thought went into this dish. The spicy crab slaw added some creaminess and spicy mayo flavor with a hint of sweetness, and that tempura shrimp delivered a nice crunch. It's the eel sauce that sends this entrée over the top, though. I plan on using this condiment a lot more on my own burgers as its rich, savory flavor amplifies the flavor of the burger itself. It's been some time since I was completely caught off guard by a burger, but I must give all the kudos to the Crabby Patty Wagon. It's not something you can get just anywhere, and the flavor combos work extremely well with one another.

After my first experience, I had to take another trip to see how their sushi was. The Garage Grill has its share of traditional sushi rolls like the Drop Top California ($10) and the Rolls Royce Vegas ($13)—renamed to match the gearhead aesthetic, of course. No shade to these rolls, but if you're going to get sushi here, might I recommend the Enzo Sushi Nachos ($15). I can almost hear all the sushi purists out there audibly gasping in reaction to such a union, but if you're like me and get a little giddy about profane dishes like this, then you've got to check it out. It's a grand pile of seaweed salad, tobiko, ahi tuna, crab salad and spicy mayo piled high atop a stack of crispy wonton wrappers. The wonton wrappers are light and crispy, but thick enough to scoop up a generous pile of ahi tuna and crab salad. For an extra eight bucks, you can get a generous portion of king crab added to the pile, which I must recommend. It's immensely fun to eat, and packs a flavor combo that will please sushi fans of any background.

From its racecar garage concept to its delightful mosh pit of a menu, The Garage Grill is full of surprises, sophisticated taste sensations and no shortage of local craft beer. I'll be looking forward to having my expectations subverted again during my next visit.