Restaurant Review: Brunch with a Venezuelan Twist at Skillets 

• Alex Springer

The brunch vibes along the Wasatch Front have had a pretty substantial glow-up over the past few years. We've had a few local restaurants really go hard with the whole brunch concept. It's true that they've yielded some interesting results, with their social media-savvy decor and build-your-own Bloody Marys, but they're a bit much for a quiet misanthrope like myself.

Since I do love it when people bring me waffles, I set off to check out Skillets, a new breakfast, brunch and lunch place near the Maven District. Based on my experience thus far, I think this new spot is perfect for people who want to enjoy cute breakfast vibes without feeling self-conscious about the number of Instagram followers they have.

Before Skillets moved into the 900 South spot that used to belong to Barrio, owners Jorge and Will Garcia-Kesler operated a popular food truck that was known for putting a Venezuelan twist on breakfast burritos—you know, the ones that snagged a Best of Utah Award last year. Fans of the food truck will be happy to know that it's still in operation, and the brick-and-mortar store has turned into a beacon of morning and midday dining for the nearby neighborhoods. I can already tell that the Skillets patio is going to be the place to be on those sunny weekend mornings that are on the way.

Those who are looking for a menu item that offers a sense of spectacle should look no further than the Tower for Two ($35), or the smaller waffle fondue ($17). On top of being gorgeous, they're also both excellent samplers of what the restaurant has to offer. The Tower for Two is a triple-stacked structure that includes plenty of sourdough toast complete with three flavors of house-made cream cheese. The aforementioned waffle fondue is also represented here, and it comes with Nutella and pistachio dipping sauces. The bottom layer is replete with savory favorites like eggs, tater tots and sausage. If you're in a duo and are not sure what to get, you can't really go wrong here.

If you're like me and curious about how Skillets incorporates Venezuelan flavors into its menu items, I'd recommend starting off with the Skillets Poutine ($17). I mean, I'd also recommend it because poutine is awesome, but that's beside the point. This poutine is assembled in hearty layers of rosemary home-fried potatoes, cheese curds, Venezuelan shredded beef and some finely chopped peppers and onions. It also gets topped with a fried egg and some hollandaise sauce that has a nice smoky kick.

Though my experience with Venezuelan food is limited to the handful of regional restaurants that have opened up around town, I do know that it's a cuisine that takes its meat and cheese very seriously. Based on that experience, the shredded beef on this poutine is a resounding success. It's got a vibrant, slightly acidic seasoning profile, and it's been roasted to tender perfection. It provides the ideal centerpiece to a dish that has layers upon layers of savory richness. Anyone who enjoys a breakfast skillet—or just food piles in general—will absolutely love this.

On the sweet side of things, Skillets is making some serious moves with its French toast. The menu includes three types of French toast, but you can also get the French toast flight ($19) that gives you one of each. I went with the stuffed French toast ($15), because Nutella is one of my most beloved breakfast condiments, and this guy is slathered in the stuff. Oh, and there are strawberries too. That makes it healthy, right?

Skillets uses thick slices of nice fluffy brioche for its French toast, and you get a lot of it. It's served with a cup of homemade caramel syrup and sprinkled with powdered sugar. When you hear the word "brunch," this is the image that pops into your mind. Now, I'm fully aware that French toast isn't a complicated dish, and it's pretty much good whether you're making it in your own kitchen or ordering it at a restaurant. However, there were a few moments during this meal that gave me pause. I loved the cinnamon and sugar caramelization happening on the surface, and that caramel syrup is dynamite.

On the spectrum of local brunch spots, Skillets manages to hit all the right bases regardless of what you're looking for. It's great for those after Instagram likes and spectacle, but you're also not beholden to that vibe if you just want to have a nice, colorful breakfast served by a friendly staff. I'm excited to see how Skillets continues to evolve and make use of its gorgeous interior and exterior spaces. This is a restaurant that has a lot going for it, and it's definitely going to be an MVP on my breakfast and brunch rotation.