Restaurant Review: Delightful, Dippable Sandwiches at Big Dipper 

• Alex Springer

Restaurants that specialize in sandwiches set a high bar for themselves. Not only do they have to compete with all those other sandwich shops in town, but they also have to prove why they're preferable to your local deli. I've seen plenty of sandwich shops fold under these circumstances, but there are some sandwich joints that understand the cultural significance of the sandwich. It's these places that become the stuff of sandwich legend. While only time will truly tell, I think Big Dipper just might have what it takes to be truly great.

For starters, Big Dipper has done well enough on Park City's Main Street to open a second location in downtown Salt Lake. This new spot took over the space that previously belonged to Taco Taco just south of Library Square, which is not a bad setup for a sandwich shop. I'm sure once our indecisive weather finally decides to pack its snow clouds away for the season, Big Dipper's patio will be absolutely hoppin'.

Not only has Big Dipper selected a good spot for its Salt Lake debut, but its whole concept is disarmingly adorable. Inspired by a shared love of French dip sandwiches, Matthew Safranek, Cortney Johanson and Fabio Ferreira filled Big Dipper's menu with dippable sandwiches. Yes, each sandwich on the menu comes with a little bowl of soup made specifically to complement its respective sandwich. For example, the Saigon in Sixty Seconds ($15)—Big Dipper's version of a banh mi—comes with some pho broth.

Though this concept may seem a little gimmicky to those who do not kneel at that altar of sandwichcraft, those who know can see its brilliance. Sandwich places typically have sandwiches, soup and salad, right? Well, what happens when you blend the soup menu with the sandwich menu? You get dippable sandwiches and a surprisingly well-rounded menu, that's what.

Each sandwich on Big Dipper's menu takes its inspiration from sandwiches all around the world. I made a beeline directly for the Hermosa Habana ($15), because it's a Cubano, and I have a weakness for this pork-on-pork panini. Big Dipper's version hits all the right bases—the roast pork is tender and juicy, they throw the ham on the griddle so it's got a little bit of char to it, the Swiss cheese has a melty pull and the pickle is thin and delicious. It's safe to say that I like this Cubano a great deal, and upon closer introspection, this is probably where I'll go next time I get a craving.

The Hermosa Habana's dip of choice is a black bean soup, which makes sense, as Cuban black beans are a classic. I think I liked the idea of this pairing more than the actual pairing, however. I was hoping that it would lean a bit more into the savory richness of stewed black beans, but it was a bit more acidic than I expected. In most cases, a nice acidic ripple to a soup is more than welcome, but I don't think it was a perfect pair with a Cubano. One of the main reasons I like a Cubano is because I respect the delicate balance between the pickle/mustard combo and the roast pork and ham. The soup's acid kind of throws this balance into disharmony, and the flavors no longer have that sharp contrast that I prefer.

I'm also a sucker for Korean flavors, so I tried the Seoul-ed Out ($15) as well. It's got a bibimbap thing going on with its roast beef, kimchi, yakisoba noodles and a fried egg—no complaints about any of that. This sandwich is paired with some ramen broth, so that, along with the yakisoba noodles, the combo is taken into Japanese territory. It's a really nice fusion of all those flavors, and the ramen broth adds some buttery richness to the whole affair. This soup/sandwich marriage is much more complementary here.

For something more indulgent, the Hunk-a Hunk-a Bernese Love ($16) is the way to go. This German-inspired sando has roast pork, bacon, sauerkraut, melty raclette cheese and comes with a mustard lager jus. If you added a nice frankfurter, this would be Oktoberfest on a bun. On the plant-based side of the spectrum, the Forecast: Sunny and Shwarm ($14) has vegan chik'n and a vegan black bean soup.

Looking back on my overall experience, I'm glad we've got two Big Dippers serving up their signature sandwiches. It's a terribly clever idea, and it's thus far pretty well-executed. I also love a collection of internationally-inspired sandwiches, because nothing quite brings people together like a good sandwich. Based on my first few experiences—and the huge crowds come lunchtime—it's a safe bet that Big Dipper will have a bright future with both its Park City and downtown SLC locations.