Restaurant Review: Digging Matteo's New Digs 

• Alex Springer

I can't think of many restaurants that celebrate their first anniversary with a complete relocation. In the case of Italian restaurant Matteo, however, I kind of get it. This is a place that rocked the Ninth and Ninth neighborhood with its Modena-inspired menu, courtesy of Chef Matteo Sogne and his family. When you generate the kind of hype that this place did over the course of a year, riding that momentum into a more centralized downtown location makes sense. I recently had a chance to check in on Matteo as the team settled into its new digs, and things are looking—and tasting—spectacular.

The new location is on 200 South, just catty-corner to the Salt Palace. Downtown diners should recognize this corner, as it's swiftly becoming a hotbed of local fine dining options. As much as I liked having Matteo near the Ninth and Ninth area, I've got to say that this location is a bit more suited to Matteo's sleek aesthetic. Like Mar Muntanya at the nearby Hyatt Regency, Matteo is going to look mighty attractive to all those out-of-town visitors come convention season.

It's also looking pretty nice to these local eyes—the new space is gorgeous, complete with a gleaming bar and private dining room. It's the kind of downtown restaurant you want to see on this particular street corner because it makes Utah look cool, and I like it when Utah looks cool.

I also appreciate that the menu has deep roots in the cuisine of Modena, Italy, which is where Chef Sogne and his family originate. The sum total of the average experience at Matteo is a menu full of intergenerational recipes—Matteo's parents are still very much involved in the kitchen—that look as good as they taste.

I started off with the polpette ($18), meatballs made with flavorful Italian sausage, which is foundationally awesome. I've had meatballs made with sausage before, and they tend to get a little overcooked and springy. That is not the case with these little babies. They're possessed of a perfect, tender texture that lets you truly savor each bite. The pomodoro sauce adds some acid to the meaty richness, and you get a heavy-handed sprinkle of parmigiano reggiano to balance everything out. They take parm seriously in Modena, so you don't miss a bit of that lovely flavor.

I also decided to check out the tartare de tonno ($21), which came highly recommended. After a few bites I could totally understand why. With its citrusy lime juice, it leans ever so slightly into the realm of ceviche; the tuna tartare has a gorgeous texture. While I liked both this and the polpette, I would definitely recommend the tartare de tonno if you're after something a bit lighter to wake up those taste buds.

Matteo has some great options for pasta courses, but if you really want to take a peek at the culinary bones of this restaurant, you'll want to go with the risotto Modena ($32). I will admit that this particular risotto isn't much to look at until it gets a drizzle of some aceto balsamico, the aged balsamic vinegar that is famous in Modena. But honestly, the fact that it gets such a simple presentation is a sure sign that this is a dish that will knock your socks off; I still haven't found mine after that first bite.

This was one of those moments where I realized that all of my previous risotto experiences were nothing but counterfeits. This risotto has a beautiful texture—buttery and smooth with a toothsome kiss of a chew. It's got plenty of parmigiano reggiano involved, so it's full of that rich blend of creamy saltiness. Even if risotto isn't that high on your priority list, this stuff is a must-try.

At a very close second to this risotto is the tagliatelle Bolognese ($24), which is taken from the recipe book of Chef Sogne's beloved nonna. I'm no stranger to the simple delights of a Bolognese, but this is the kind of preparation that promptly takes your hand and guides you back in time to the very first time you fell in love with a Bolognese. I often wonder how dishes like this manage to make me rethink everything I thought I knew when they appear so simple on paper. That's when I remember that there are people like Chef Sogne and his family who have pushed themselves as close to perfection as they can get—and God bless them for that.

For the final course, I would recommend the brasato ($36), a lovely cut of braised beef prepared with a bourbon honey reduction. It's beautiful to look at, perfectly tender and that bourbon honey reduction warms you up from the inside-out. It's very unlikely that you'll be hungry after trying the first two courses, but you'll want to devour this anyway.

I was expecting Matteo to deliver even after completing such a speedy relocation, but I feel like this move perfectly defines the term "hit the ground running." The menu is as delightful as it's always been and the cool new digs will definitely be seeing an influx of downtown business.