Restaurant Review: El Barril 

When springtime finally chooses to reveal itself in Utah and I feel the need to wake from hibernation, my thoughts always turn to breakfast. Warmer weather increases my overall motivation to seize the day, and a proper attempt at day-seizing just isn't complete without a good breakfast. With its penchant for embracing food that is simply too rich and flavorful to enjoy at any other part of the day, breakfast has a way of making you believe in the impossible.

There are plenty of places to indulge a deep breakfast craving, but lately I've been a bit smitten with El Barril in Sandy (9460 S. Union Square, Ste. 105; 385-955-8838; facebook.com/CafeElBarril). I checked this place out after I first visited Venezuela Mia (since they are neighbors), and it's got all the charm of a family-owned diner with a few welcome twists.

For example, El Barril focuses on the comforts of Mexican breakfast and lunch favorites while operating a full-service juice bar. So, if you're after something quick and healthy instead of slow and decadent, you can pop in for one of their fresh fruit smoothies ($6.75) or immunity-boosting juice shots ($4.99). I was pleasantly surprised with the Vampiro, which mixes carrot, beet and orange juices into a vibrant and unexpectedly sweet breakfast beverage. I was also impressed when my daughter ordered a chocolate milk ($4.50) and she was presented with a mason jar-sized beverage drizzled with chocolate syrup and topped with whipped cream. As it turns out,,their drinks are just as composed and balanced as their food.

Not only does El Barril have classics like huevos rancheros ($16) and chilaquiles ($11.50), it's got a few creative fusion dishes that mix other classics into the mix. During my inaugural visit, I tried the biscuits-and-gravy burrito ($16.50) because why wouldn't you get a biscuits-and-gravy burrito if the opportunity presented itself? Overall, this variation on a breakfast burrito is a win; the house-made chorizo and their country gravy are excellent together.

It does tend to get a bit dry, since there are biscuits and tater tots inside, but that's usually fixed when the gravy is evenly distributed throughout. A bite with every element inside is really quite excellent.

In keeping with El Barril's creative pairings, they have a few different versions of chilaquiles that are worth checking out. For example, their cochinita pibil ($16) version is great for those after a spicy kick to their morning meal. The marinated pork has the traditional citrus acidity that you'd expect from a cochinita pibil, but that salsa Yucateca really ramps up the heat levels.

For something a bit less spicy but equally impressive, the Birriaquiles ($16) are another tasty option. It maintains the traditional chilaquiles preparation of tortilla chips, salsa and made-to-order eggs, while adding tender beef birria to the mix. I think the latter option is the one I'd go back to for breakfast. It's got a bit of heat from the salsa, and the slow-cooked birria goes very well with some silky egg yolks.

Those who like their breakfast sweet rather than savory will dig El Barril's menu of crepes ($15). Their berry cream cheese crepe is the most popular with its cool mix of blueberries, blackberries and raspberries and plenty of sweetened cream cheese. The banana caramel crepe isn't a bad option either, however—just depends on what kind of crepe suits your fancy in the early hours.

If you are visiting El Barril for lunch and also haven't eaten in some time, their house specialty known as El Barrilazo ($35) will set you up nicely. It's a monstrous combo meal featuring carne asada, chicken, flautas, a chile relleno, a grilled nopal, three chorizos, rice and some flour tortillas. It's the kind of lunch that makes you feel a bit like a king feasting in your own court, and really is a lot of food for the price point. I wouldn't attempt this one for lunch unless you had a pretty clear schedule for the rest of the day, however.

For something a bit lighter, the mulas with consomme ($14.25) are a solid bet. A mula comes with your choice of meat that gets stuffed between two crispy corn tortillas and is served with some savory consomme broth.

Overall, El Barril feels like a special place in the local dining scene. It's got the welcoming service and homey vibes of a neighborhood diner, but the menu is touting some takes on Mexican comfort food that you just can't get anywhere else. When you consider this place is also doing crepes, operating a juice bar and serving mimosas all at the same time, you start to realize that you're dining someplace very unique. If you're after a true breakfast of champions from start to finish, El Barril should definitely be on your radar.