Restaurant Review: Ramen Ichizu Heats Up Central Ninth 

• Alex Springer
• Tokusei Shoyu

I know I speak for all local noodle fans when I say that we have been blessed with a bounty of ramen riches. We've had some solid ramen game ever since Tosh's Ramen first opened, but lately, each new spot that opens its doors is throwing a gauntlet down and trying to outdo its predecessors in tasty new ways. The most recent darling among local ramen fans is Ramen Ichizu, a new venture from Chef Mike Harrison of Park City's Hana Ramen Bar. This buzzy new fixture in the Central Ninth neighborhood has people swearing up and down that it's the best ramen you can get this side of Tokyo.

As Tokyo is where Chef Harrison mastered his techniques, it makes sense that his recipes have made such a splash here in SLC. Harrison studied under Master Chef Takeshi Koitani of Tokyo's Rajuku Ramen School, which has graduates all over the world. This means that everything you get at Ramen Ichizu is made in-house daily, and that includes the noodles. Everything is made to Chef Harrison's specifications—which is why there's a vibrant "house rules" sign above the bar that forbids substitutions and takeout orders.

I've been excited about this place ever since I heard about it, but I had a bit of an awkward first impression that prolonged my subsequent visits a bit. After verifying online that they were open for lunch, I made my way over. When I opened the door, the staff told me they were closed and sent me on my way. I shrugged this off, of course; it's a new place, and things like this happen amid the chaos of opening a restaurant.

My next visit during lunch hours was more successful—the place was indeed open, and sufficiently packed, so I grabbed a spot at the bar. The foundational menu at Ramen Ichizu is based around shoyu and shio broths, though you can also get vegan ramen ($17) and the spicier tantan ramen ($18) depending on what you want your ramen journey to look like. I am always a fan of getting as many things as possible in my ramen, so I went with the Tokusei Shoyu ($22) with a side of gyoza ($9).

This hefty bowl of ramen starts with the shoyu broth and house-made ramen noodles, then gets topped with thin slices of pork and chicken, some dimpled wontons, a luscious soft-boiled egg and plenty of scallions. Once you get a whiff of that rich, slightly malty aroma wafting outward from these gorgeous depths, you know you're in for something special. Ramen is one of those dishes that has the potential to strike a perfect balance between flavor and textures, and I gotta say, the stuff they're slinging at Ramen Ichizu is damn near perfect in every way.

For starters, the broth alone contains a multitude of nuanced flavors. You get the bone broth richness, the complementary saltiness from the soy and a multitude of other facets that are difficult to name, because they are as diverse and vibrant as the stars in the sky. It's the kind of broth that rewards patience; fill your spoon with a mouthful, and savor it as you would a fine wine. The noodles are also excellent—just the right amount of toothsome, with a nice hearty flavor.

The additions to the ramen go very nicely with the whole package; I love that the soft-boiled egg gets a marinade before hitting the ramen. This is part-and-parcel with traditional ramen recipes, but I've experienced so many places that just pop in a hard-boiled egg from the fridge, that I am grateful to see this happening. The meat was tender and flavorful, and the wontons were equally delightful.

I had finished my bowl of ramen before I even realized that the gyoza had not yet arrived. The server explained that they can take a long time to prep, but I happened to overhear an exchange in the kitchen that made me think my order got lost in the shuffle. They arrived after I settled my bill—again, a bit of an awkward service moment—and they were decent. I appreciated that they included the crispy lattice from pan frying, but perhaps it's not fair to judge them after plowing my way through that stellar bowl of ramen.

My overall experience at Ramen Ichizu was a mixed bag. I was unfortunate enough to experience a few off-kilter slips when it came to service, which I understand can happen to the best of people in the best of places. However, watching those missteps unfold in the shadow of a blackboard that explains how you should eat your ramen kind of rubbed me the wrong way.

I will need to ponder my ramen orb a bit more, but at the moment I do think that Ramen Ichizu is serving up one of the best—if not the best—bowls of ramen locally. It captures everything you love about ramen, then expands your schema on the subject in delicious new ways.