Restaurant Review: Sushi and Ramen at Lee Sushi 

• Alex Springer

When conducting gastronomic research along the Wasatch Front, it's important to let happenstance be your guide on some occasions. Don't get me wrong: I love a nicely planned visit to a restaurant that I've been stalking on social media for weeks, but every so often you just have to look at where you are and how much time you've got to kill and just dive into the first place that catches your eye.

For me this happened while I was waiting to get my oil changed near the South Towne Auto Mall in Sandy. I spotted a place called Lee Sushi on my way in, and decided to mosey on over to check it out.

It's a tiny establishment owned and operated by the Lee family, and it's tucked away in the strip mall located on the southwest corner of State Street and 106th South. It shares a wall with the online gaming bastion known as Gamer Planet, which gave me an automatic inward grin. Loading up on some local comfort food before diving into a late-night Magic: The Gathering pre-release occupied a good chunk of my early adulthood, so whenever I see a hole-in-the-wall restaurant close to any kind of dimly-lit video-game dungeon or hobby shop, I get a kick out of the notion of all those gamers whose nocturnal exploits would be fueled by the sushi burritos and potstickers next door.

While sushi isn't traditionally considered "gamer fuel" in most dining circles, there is something about Lee Sushi that bridges this gap. If you're after the dainty, nibble-worthy sushi of the business-lunch crowd, then you can just keep walking. But, if you're after sushi that has a healthy dose of Korean pomp, because you've got a long night of grinding in Diablo IV ahead of you, Lee Sushi has something special for you.

Whether it's one of their hefty sushi burritos or a refreshing poke bowl, you'll want some variety of sushi when you pop in—but let's not get ahead of ourselves when there's appetizers to be discussed. Lee Sushi has some decent pork potstickers ($5.99) to speak of, but I absolutely love their jalapeño bombs ($4.99) as both a snack and a statement. If you've had deep fried jalapeño poppers filled with cream cheese before, you'll know what you're getting into with this appetizer—it's a classic example of unpretentious party food. As a diner who appreciates a restaurant that knows how to please their core demographic, these tempura-fried jalapeño bombs are a thing of beauty.

As I mentioned earlier, the sushi rolls at Lee Sushi are bodaciously portioned, which gives you a lot of bang for your buck. If you're after something that will wallop your taste buds, but don't want to think too hard about the menu, the sushi combos are great. They vary in types and quantities of roll, but the Roll Combo #4 ($17.99) is a good way to try a lot of their rolls on one plate—though I wouldn't recommend these combos if tempura-fried rolls aren't your jam.

The winner of the combo #4 is the traditional Vegas roll, but let's not overlook the Spamtastic roll for its unrepentant absurdity. The interior contains some fried Spam, a bit of cream cheese and a sliver of cucumber. It's also deep fried and slathered in some creamy mayo and some smoky gochujang-adjacent ketchup. This is so crunchy, salty, tangy and sweet that it should be served on a stick at the state fair—and I say that as a genuine compliment.

For those averse to deep-fried rolls, the Sunset Roll ($12.99) is a decent option. It's built on a California roll foundation and topped with salmon, spicy mayo and a thin slice of lemon. This is also a good-sized roll that combines a fun flavor profile—the fresh salmon, spicy mayo and lemon play very nicely on the tongue.

Beyond the sushi menu, you can find some decent ramen options. I like the Korean Spicy Ramen ($12.99), as well as the dumpling ramen ($16.99), which upgrades the former with some veggie dumplings. Both the broth and noodle games are on point at Lee Sushi; this stuff has "hangover cure" written all over it.

Another variation on the traditional ramen and sushi menu comes in the form of a Korean dessert called bingsoo ($8). It's a pile of snowy shaved ice that gets topped with either chocolate or mango, and it's quite refreshing during our toasty summer days. It eats a bit like a snow cone mixed with a sundae—cold, sweet and filled with nuanced flavors.

I've been back to Lee Sushi a few times since that first visit, and the food is consistently tasty while the service remains warm and welcoming. If you're a longtime sushi fan or if you're looking for a friendly place to see why sushi is awesome, Lee Sushi is a great place to visit.