Utah beer reviews: UTOG's IV Anniversary Ale and Level Crossing Our Wit's End
Mixing the right components for two great new beers
By Mike Riedel @utahbeer
UTOG IV Anniversary Ale: This is UTOG's Buffalo Soldier - Black IPA aged in Ogden's Own Porter's Rye whiskey casks. As you'd expect, it looks about the same as the base black IPA, pitch-black with a tan collar that has trouble staying full due to the barrel treatment. I have long thought this would be a great beer style for a barrel, and finally those dreams have become reality.
This IPA has a malt base like a big porter, real deep on the roast with some wonderful earthy, almost charred bitterness to it—not of sweeter crystal malts in the middle, but it does have a great body.
As predicted, it gibes well with the Porter's Rye whiskey barrel. The sweet whiskey and vanilla notes really come out here, balancing the dark roast, bitter cocoa and coffee notes, and making it feel rich with all the wood. The hops here may be lost just a little bit to the barrel—not that it doesn't taste fresh and hoppy, because it does, but this is a beer that has always been quite bitter from the hops, and still is. It's just that some of the more piney hop nuance is less obvious.
Verdict: I like all the body here, and don't mind the 10.6 percent booze warmth that this finishes with, either. This is a style we rarely see—barrel-aged black imperial IPA—but with this particular beer, I think it makes a lot of sense. The result is unique and delicious, superb for chilly spring afternoons. I liked this a whole lot.
Pink Boots Utah/Level Crossing - Our Wits End: It's Pink Boots time once again in Utah—the time when the local industry's women and LGBTQ+ employees brew special beers to support these crucial members of our craft-beer community. It was decided that this year's hop blend would lend itself well to a Belgian style witbier, and damn it if they didn't nail it.
There's no doubt that this is a witbier; the pale-hazed, nearly eggshell-colored wheat beer looks incredible with its big frothy head. Clove, white pepper, mild bubblegum and a blast of lemon peel greet the nose, resulting in a very pleasant bouquet.
The first taste is light and crisp, but still decently rich from the addition of wheat. The flavors pretty much follow the nose, predominantly constituting a gentle floral/spice note initially that isn't overpowering or overtly cloying. Up front, it tastes like gentle clove and grains of paradise, maybe even white pepper, before opening up into sweet white bread and whipped cream. At the end, you get more clean, floral, dry flavors like peppery yeast and a big blast of bitter citrus rind—very refreshing and thirst-quenching. It feels light in body and carbs without being "watery;" it feels heavier than it actually is. It's airy and smooth, and the flavor profile is perfectly suited for the mouthfeel, with a great balance between drinkability and spice/wheat flavor.
Verdict: A deliciously tasty witbier with plenty of subtle flavors, and a very restrained and appealing nose. Even after all that, taste is king, and I have to recommend this as one of the best witbiers I've tried in recent memory, as well as one of the better 5.0 percent Pink Boots collabs from the hearts of Utah's breweries. This will be available at most participating breweries on draft.
As of this writing, you can find Our Wits End at Level Crossing, Roosters, Ogden Beer, West-Side Tavern, Bricks and Fisher, though I'm sure it's at other breweries with a guest tap by now. IV Anniversary Ale is available in 16-ounce cans at UTOG's brewery to enjoy in house or to-go. As always, cheers!
About The Author
Mike Riedel
Local boy and pilot of City Weekly’s best gig, The Beer Nerd column since 2017. Current photojournalist at KSTU TV (Fox 13) and host of the Utah Beer Blog and Beer Nerd Radio on KUAA 99.9 FM radio.
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