Way of the Samurai 

• Alex Springer

Some of my fondest food memories come from the bowls of intoxicating broth and slurpable noodles available at your local ramen bar. Recently, I've been making the ramen rounds and working on my list of my favorites.

I still have a long way to go—we've had plenty of new spots open up, but there's also a solid amount of established noodle bars that have built a local following. One such place is Samurai Noodle (11483 S. State Street, Draper, 801-987-3887), whose house-made noodles and flavorful broths have become quite popular in the Draper area.

Samurai Noodle has been operating for around four years now, and its main claim to fame is the imported noodle machine displayed in the foyer. It's a nice centerpiece that captures Samurai Noodle's greatest strength—homemade noodles. Yes, the ramen noodles that diners enjoy every day are made from scratch onsite. I'll eat ramen regardless of when the noodles were made, but when you get something made in-house it's a whole new ballgame. Eating homemade noodles is one of those abstract distinctions—like knowing when you're in love or when the seasons change—that make a meal at Samurai Noodle unique.

I suppose the first decision one needs to make before hitting up Samurai Noodle is whether you want their noodles pre-slathered in delicious broth or to keep them both separate until they say the word. The latter option of dipping ramen is a bit of a rarity in our neck of the woods, but it's a staple at traditional ramen joints all over the world.

If you're curious about this methodology, Samurai has two options for you to try. There's the Tetsu Max ($11.25) and the Tetsu Hellfire ($11.50). Both dishes are served with Samurai's signature ramen noodles, served cold, accompanied by a bowl of heady broth. The Tetsu Max is a chicken broth garnished with a bit of shredded pork, seaweed and some adorable naruto fish cakes. The idea is to snag a tangle of noodles and swirl them around in the broth to soak up all that goodness before popping it in your mouth. If spicy is your thing, then the Tetsu Hellfire's addition of spicy chili will put a definite spring in your step.

Fond as I am of the dipping ramen variations, I'm primarily a noodles-and-broth kind of ramen fan—I'm a sucker for chasing those little curlicue noodles around with chopsticks. The ramen selection at Samurai is considerable—plenty of vegan and vegetarian options as well—so making a decision is a bit tricky. Do you go for the tried-and-true hakata tonkotsu ($8.95)? Or mix it up and go with the miso ramen ($8.95)? This is a decision for you and you alone, dear reader. As I was feeling particularly super and spicy during my most recent visit, I got the Spicy Super Ramen ($12.50).

It's called "Super" for a reason, of course, and that reason is because it comes with a little bit of everything. It's a mix of pork and chicken broth that comes with all the ramen trimmings—sliced pork belly, bamboo shoots, seaweed, fish cakes and a soft-boiled egg. The spicy variation gets a squirt of Samurai's house spicy garlic sauce, which adds a nice kick to the whole affair. It's definitely a celebration of what I love most about ramen—luxurious broth simmered to perfection, tangly noodles with a wonderfully chewy texture and all kinds of fun supporting eats to scoop up with each bite.

It's rare for me to venture from the signature soups on a ramen bar's menu, but there is a non-ramen item at Samurai that is just as good as anything on their main menu. It's called Sumo Rice ($5.95 for a cup, $10.95 for a bowl), and it's a prime example of how simple food done right can completely knock you on your ass. It starts with a lot of fluffy white rice that gets topped with a liberal dose of shredded pork, corn, green onions, teriyaki sauce, Japanese mayonnaise and a soft-boiled egg. When you mix it all up and let the creamy tanginess of that Japanese mayo mix with the soft rice and savory pork, each bite becomes an ethereal balance of flavors and textures. Sometimes a good bowl of rice with a bit of simple, complementary ingredients is the best damn thing on the planet. It's definitely worth checking out during your visit.

Whether it's a steaming bowl of meticulously flavored ramen or a few generous scoops of steamed rice with some clever toppings, Samurai Noodle has something for every fan of Japanese comfort food. If you've yet to experience the sheer joy that homemade noodles can deliver, or you're just a ramen fan trying to expand your repertoire, now is a great time to check out Samurai Noodle.