Wheat Wine Time 

• Mike Riedel

This week, we get to have a little fun with two different versions of the same beer: wheat wines. The American-style wheat wine ale is not derived from grapes, as its name might suggest. This unique ale is made with at least 50 percent wheat malt, resulting in a full-bodied beer characterized by bready and candy flavors, finishing with a great deal of malty sweetness. The "wine" part of the name simply indicates that its ABV has crept into the stronger wine territory. Since the inception of Utah's craft beer scene back in the mid-'80s, only three Utah breweries have created wheat wines ales: Wasatch, Epic and now Level Crossing.

Level Crossing has enhanced their take on the style by offering this strong ale two different ways: a barrel-aged version, and their more traditional version. I got to sit down recently with Chris Detrick, Level Crossing's Head Brewer, and was able to dissect these beers and discover how different they really are.

Level Crossing - VII XXV XVII Wheatwine Ale: We'll start with the base wheat wine. This is the second vintage of this strong ale, the first being the 2021 version which debuted in late July. The current version has an increased ABV, from 10.5 to 11.5 percent.

The color is a cross between apricot and straw. Right up front, there is a kick of alcohol-soaked fruit in the nose; white raisins and dates are most prominent. There is a soft wheat presence in the aroma that sits behind the fruit notes, offering up a nutty quality almost like brown rice. In general, the aroma is rich and fruity, with an interesting aroma added from the wheat.

Thick, sweet fruit kicks things off up front as we take our first swigs. It's apricot in character, with rich cremé brûlée sweetness. Light fruity esters introduce a touch of bright strawberry; up to this point, the flavors remind me of a honey-forward barley wine. Almost suddenly, the wheat enters the picture and throws some interesting complexity into the mix. There is a soft spice note that reminds me of vanilla with some dried orange peel. It's subtle, but adds a fantastic layer to the ale's end. The finish is long, sweet and lingering—complex, easy to approach and a bit mysterious. The mouthfeel is full and a touch syrupy in the finish. The carbonation is very soft, which helps reduce the heaviness of the body.

Verdict: This is a big beer, but Level Crossing definitely takes it a step farther. Wheat wines are an interesting concept. The majority of this beer's malt bill is wheat, which adds subtle spice and definitely softens out the beer's character. If barley wines are tough for you, this may be more approachable.

Level Crossing - Barrel-Aged VII XXV XVII Wheatwine Ale: This version features the 2021 vintage that has been napping in Malbec and Grenache barrels that previously stored High West whiskey. It pours a clear copper color with some light mahogany highlights. The aroma on this one is pretty bold; soon after the pour, I am getting rich toffee and oak notes. The nose opens to a mix of white grapes and vanilla as the glass sits, with no hint of hops and only the hint of bourbon notes betraying the 10.5 ABV on this beer.

The flavor is also very nice. I get rich caramel and toffee notes mixed with pears, white grapes and apricot. Some brown sugar and sweet sherry begin to take hold, but it's constantly being influenced by the vanilla-forward oak barrels, interesting flavors that I think only enhance the beer. I don't detect much in the way of hops, and I suspect they were mostly absent even in 2021 when the beer was fresh. Booze is well hidden, with no real heat or peppery notes.

Verdict: This ale is complex enough to share or to be enjoyed solitarily. I think you'll have as much fun picking this apart as we did. Grab some extras for your cellar.

These are only available at Level Crossing once a year. Time is ticking. As always, cheers!